Bob Boyles told me about a possible line on Borah and since I knew the face was in great shape from just being up there, Bob Jahn and I made plans to climb it this last weekend. We ended up adjusting our date since the weather models were showing the possibility of some precip moving in on Saturday. We decided on Friday. We left Boise on Thursday and made it to Rock Creek before it was dark. We organized and packed. We did it in a day from Rock Creek back to Rock Creek so we were pretty light on gear. It would have been fun to camp up at the upper cirque and maybe even have had a porter to haul our stuff out while we climbed up and over. But... that's not my style. I hate camping. I don't mind a bivy (if forced, not planned). I like the modern ethos of "Light and Fast". I might not always get the "Fast", but I am usually pretty "Light"! If there's a possibility of doing something car to car, I will give it a go.
The climbing was solid. There were only a few spots where there were bulges of steeper ice, so hence the grading (at the time/conditions) of AI3-. I had looked at Bob's route photo and was concerned about a possible rock band that looked very steep that might be blocking the route. It ended up having a sliver of ice cut through and went beautifully.
We had to rope up for the final couloir. It was a brutal pitch! Best one of the day, in my opinion! It was a runnel of super solid ice in a vertical fissure. It ended with a M3 move over a chockstone with a small nut 10 feet down for pro. I ran out of rope and brought Bob up. I stashed the rope and we climbed the last 100 feet right to the summit. I was very pleased that there were no people up there. We started down and almost made it to the treeline and the lights went out. We cut back to Rock Creek at the knob where the main trail cuts hard left. Since it was darker than a well-diggers ass, we used all the altimeter, map, compass and watch techniques not to end up going too far into the upper drainages that go into Rock Creek. We busted out almost right at the dam. We were back at the van drinking beer and shower water and eating chips with no salsa before Midnight. We took the Stanley loop back home and stopped at the Stanley Baking Co. and had breakfast. It was a great trip. Thank you to Mr. Boyles for the inspiration to get on something different!